VUVU Mini print guide

VUVU Mini is a modular 3D-printed table lamp designed specifically for compact desktop 3D printers. Every part fits within a 180 × 180 × 180 mm build volume, while keeping the modular design language of the original VUVU.

This guide walks you through the full process, from materials to slicer settings to assembly, and explains how each choice influences the final look. There isn't just one way to print this lamp. This guide helps you understand the options so you can create the version that fits your style, even if you're just starting out with 3D printing.

I hope you have fun making yours.
— sisimono

1. About VUVU Mini
2. Printer
3. Filament
4. LED strip
5. Your files
6. Before printing
7. Print settings
8. Troubleshooting
9. Installing the LED
10. Assembly
11. Care & maintenance
12. FAQ

About VUVU Mini

VUVU Mini is built from a series of printed modules that stack around a central light column. It follows the same modular design as the original VUVU, made to fit compact desktop printers.

Each lamp consists of

• The base: a sisimono logo-shaped base that holds the light column.
• The light column: a translucent PETG tube with grooves for the LED strip.
• The column cap: closes the light column.
• The lamp shades: stackable outer shells that diffuse the light.
• The lamp top: closes the lamp visually.

The design relies on

• A build volume of at least 180 × 180 × 180 mm.
• Translucent PETG or PLA for a warm, even glow.
• Click connections for stability.
• Thick layers and wide lines for better light diffusion.
• An LED strip you can buy almost anywhere.

Overview

VUVU Mini is a fully functional table lamp, 28 cm tall. Every part fits within a 180 × 180 × 180 mm build volume.

Per part

*Print time depends on nozzle diameter, chosen speed and cooling settings.

Printer

You can use any 3D printer with a build volume of at least 180 × 180 × 180 mm. For example:

• Bambu Lab A1 mini — 180 × 180 × 180 mm
• Original Prusa MINI — 180 × 180 × 180 mm
• Creality Ender 3 — 220 × 220 × 250 mm

Filament

The lamp was developed using PETG. Because LED strips generate heat (typically 25–60 °C), material choice matters. PLA begins to soften at around 55–60 °C, especially in hollow parts where heat can build up. That's why different parts of the lamp use different materials.

Base

The base doesn't sit close to the LEDs and doesn't warm up, so material choice is flexible. Basic or matte PLA is easiest to print. PETG also works if you prefer a more monochrome look (expect longer print times).

Light column

The light column sits directly next to the LED strip, so heat resistance matters here. PETG handles heat much better than PLA, PLA can deform when used as a hollow tube around LEDs, and PETG gives a cleaner, more even glow. The lamp has been tested extensively with a PETG light column.

→ Print the light column in translucent PETG only.

Lamp shades

For the shades, you're free to experiment. That's part of the fun. Different materials subtly change the mood of the lamp: translucent PETG looks clearer and more transparent, while translucent PLA creates a softer, more diffused glow.

LED strip

VUVU Mini is designed around the Philips Hue Lightstrip. It's available almost everywhere, so it's the strip I recommend.

Recommended product

Philips Hue Flux Lightstrip, 3 m (10 ft). The older Hue Lightstrip Solo fits too.

Why Philips Hue?

• Available worldwide
• Can be cut to length
• Dimmable, with consistent light quality
• Plug-and-play: control it with the app, a switch or your voice

Other LED strips

Other strips work too, as long as they fit the 17 × 5 mm grooves in the light column, can be cut to length, and come with their own certified plug-in power supply.

Note: the strip is cut to length for this lamp, and Philips has no simple way to reuse the leftover piece yet. I'll update the guide when there's a better solution.

Your files

Inside the download folder

• License
• Print guide
• Base
• Light column
• Light column cap
• Bottom lamp shade
• Lamp shade (stackable)
• Lamp top

Using the files

All parts are already oriented for printing, so there's no need to flip or reposition anything.

1. Drag one file into your slicer.
2. Apply the settings for that part (see Print settings).
3. Slice and print. One part per plate works best.

Before printing

Make sure to:

• Level the bed
• Clean the nozzle
• Dry your filament (especially PETG)
• Print one part per plate

Where to find the settings

Bambu Studio / OrcaSlicer: layer height, line width, walls, infill, speed and vase mode (Others → Spiral vase) are in the process settings. Temperature, flow ratio, fan speeds and minimum layer time are filament settings: click the edit icon next to your filament under Project Filaments.

PrusaSlicer: layers, infill, speed and Spiral vase are under Print Settings. Temperature, extrusion multiplier (flow) and cooling are under Filament Settings.

Always start from the exact preset named for each part, then change the listed settings. Don't just change the layer height on a different preset.

Print settings

Not every part of the lamp prints the same way. Each part has its own job, so it gets its own nozzle, preset and settings. Here's the overview; the details per part follow below.

1. Lamp base

Start with the base. It's a structural part, so strength and dimensional accuracy matter. If your printer still has the stock 0.4 mm nozzle, this is the best place to begin. Otherwise you'll end up changing nozzles twice.

Nozzle: 0.4 mm. Start from the 0.20 mm Strength preset. Vase mode: off.

Why: six walls give rigidity and clean threads, gyroid infill gives even strength without long print times, and a slower outer wall improves surface quality and accuracy.

Once the base is done, switch to a 0.8 mm nozzle for all other parts.

2. Light column

The light column is a structural part. It needs to be strong and stable, but also let the light through. Before printing, switch to a 0.8 mm nozzle and select it in both your printer and slicer.

Use the 0.40 mm Standard preset for the 0.8 mm nozzle. Vase mode: off. The column clicks into the base and cap, so it needs real walls.

Why: a large nozzle and thick layers make strong, stable parts. A low fan keeps the layers bonded, while overhang cooling helps the click connection keep its shape. A minimum layer time lets each small layer cool before the next one.

3. Lamp shades

The lamp shade defines how the lamp looks when it's switched on. The focus here is even light diffusion, clean vertical walls and a consistent glow. The bottom lamp shade uses the same settings.

Nozzle: 0.8 mm. Use the 0.56 mm Standard preset and turn on Vase mode / Spiral vase with Smooth spiral.

Why: vase mode prints one continuous wall with no seam, thick lines and high layers blend the light smoothly, fan off gives glossy walls while overhang cooling keeps curved edges from drooping, and because the Mini's layers are small, a minimum layer time prevents heat build-up.

4. Lamp top

The lamp top finishes the lamp visually. Like the shades, it's printed for even light diffusion and a clean surface, not for strength.

Nozzle: 0.8 mm. Use the 0.40 mm Standard preset, with Vase mode / Spiral vase and Smooth spiral on. Same settings as the lamp shade, except for the layer height:

The thinner layers give a cleaner top edge. Once the lamp top is finished, you can move on to assembly.

Troubleshooting

Small dots or bubbles on my PETG print

Cause: moisture in the filament or slight under-extrusion. Dry your filament before printing and set the flow ratio to 1.01 (filament settings).

My print doesn't stick to the build plate

Clean the plate with warm water and dish soap. PLA: smooth plate. PETG: textured plate.

My PETG shade looks dull or matte

Set the fan to 0% (keep overhang cooling on) and print at 30 mm/s.

My shade sags or droops

Set a minimum layer time of 15 s and a minimum print speed of 15 mm/s. Lower the speed (PLA: 20 mm/s) and open the printer door, especially with PLA.

The lamp top fails near the end of the print

Set a minimum layer time of 15 s and a minimum print speed of 15 mm/s, and keep overhang cooling on.

Ripples or bumps in a shade

Use the 0.56 mm preset, not a 0.4 preset with a changed layer height. Avoid silk and gradient filaments.

Installing the LED

The LED strip sits inside the light column. Cut it to length before you install it.

Cutting the LED

Only cut the strip at the marked cut points: look for the small copper pads and the scissor icon. For VUVU Mini, cut at the first cut mark from the power source, so you keep one short section of strip.

Inserting the LED

Starting at the bottom of the light column, gently push the strip into one of the grooves, with the LEDs facing inward. At the top, loop it around and guide it back down through the groove on the opposite side.

Cable routing

The Hue controller block sits on top of the base. There are two cable holes:

1. Click the LED cable into the opening underneath the inner circle.
2. Guide the cable through the base and connect it to the Hue controller.
3. Route the power cable down through the second opening in the outer circle and out underneath the base.

Step-by-step assembly

1. Twist the light column into the base.
2. Push the LED strip into the light column (see Installing the LED).
3. Route the cable through the base.
4. Put the cap on the light column.
5. Place the bottom lamp shade on the base.
6. Stack the lamp shades on top.
7. Finish with the lamp top.

Care & maintenance

When moving the lamp, always support it from the bottom, with one hand under the light column. Because the base uses a spiral connection, the light column can move slightly up and down if it isn't supported.

Over time, the lamp may collect dust. Clean it with a dry or lightly damp cloth.

If you need to transport the lamp, take it apart into modules.

FAQ

Can I use PLA?

Yes, for the base and the shades. Print the light column in PETG: the LEDs get warm and PLA can deform.

Can I make the lamp taller?

Technically, yes, but more modules make the lamp less stable. For a taller lamp, the original VUVU is designed for exactly that.

Can I use a different LED strip?

Yes, as long as it fits the 17 × 5 mm grooves, can be cut to length and has its own certified plug-in power supply.

Why is the fan off for the shades?

It gives glossy, well-bonded, more translucent walls. Overhang cooling stays on, so curved edges don't droop.

Still stuck?

Email hey@sisimono.com with a photo and your .3mf file. I'm happy to help.

Thank you

Thank you for printing the VUVU Mini lamp. If you'd like to share your build, tag @heysisimono on Instagram. Community prints are featured regularly.

Questions? Email hey@sisimono.com.

Hope you enjoyed building it.
— sisimono