VUVU print guide

VUVU is a modular 3D-printed lamp designed to show how far you can push your small desktop printer. Every part fits inside a 250 × 250 × 250 mm build volume and assembles into a complete lighting system. Designed to be printable, practical, and adaptable.

This guide walks you through the full process, from materials to slicer settings to assembly, and explains how each choice influences the final look. There isn't just one way to print this lamp. This guide helps you understand the options so you can create the version that fits your style, even if you're just starting out with 3D printing.

I hope you have fun making yours.
— sisimono

1. About VUVU
2. Printer
3. Filament
4. LED strip
5. Your files
6. Before printing
7. Print settings
8. Installing the LED
9. Assembly
10. Troubleshooting
11. Care & maintenance
12. FAQ

About VUVU

VUVU is built from a series of printed modules that stack around a central light column. The lamp comes in three sizes (small, medium and large), each with its own proportions and matching cap.

Each lamp consists of

• The base: a sisimono logo-shaped base that holds the light column.
• The light column: a translucent tube with a groove for the LED strip, printed in 25 cm sections that click together.
• The column cap: closes the light column and matches your lamp size.
• The lamp shades: stackable outer shells that diffuse the light.
• The lamp top: closes the lamp visually.

The design relies on

• Translucent PETG or PLA for a warm, even glow.
• Click connections for stability.
• Thick layers and wide lines for better light diffusion.
• An LED strip you can buy almost anywhere.

Sizes

In theory, you can add more modules. In practice, stability drops beyond seven modules, so I recommend staying within these sizes.

Filament needed

Print time*

*Print time depends on nozzle diameter, chosen speed and cooling settings.

Printer

You can use any 3D printer with a build volume of at least 250 × 250 × 250 mm. For example:

• Bambu Lab X1, P1, P2 and A1 — 256 × 256 × 256 mm (not the A1 mini)
• Creality K1 Max — 300 × 300 × 300 mm
• Original Prusa XL — 360 × 360 × 360 mm

Filament

The lamp was developed using PETG. Because LED strips generate heat (typically 25–60 °C), material choice matters. PLA begins to soften at around 55–60 °C, especially in hollow parts where heat can build up. That's why different parts of the lamp use different materials.

Base

The base doesn't sit close to the LEDs and doesn't warm up, so material choice is flexible. Basic or matte PLA is easiest to print. PETG also works if you prefer a more monochrome look (expect longer print times).

Light column

The light column sits directly next to the LED strip, so heat resistance matters here. PETG handles heat much better than PLA, PLA can deform when used as a hollow tube around LEDs, and PETG gives a cleaner, more even glow. The lamp has been tested extensively with a PETG light column.

→ Print the light column in translucent PETG only.

Lamp shades

For the shades, you're free to experiment. That's part of the fun. Different materials subtly change the mood of the lamp: translucent PETG looks clearer and more transparent, while translucent PLA creates a softer, more diffused glow.

LED strip

VUVU is designed around the Philips Hue Lightstrip. It's available almost everywhere, so it's the strip I recommend.

Recommended product

Philips Hue Flux Lightstrip, 3 m (10 ft). The older Hue Lightstrip Solo fits too.

Why Philips Hue?

• Available worldwide
• Can be cut to length
• Dimmable, with consistent light quality
• Plug-and-play: control it with the app, a switch or your voice

Other LED strips

Other strips work too, as long as they fit the 17 × 5 mm groove in the light column, can be cut to length, and come with their own certified plug-in power supply.

Note: the strip is cut to length for this lamp, and Philips has no simple way to reuse the leftover piece yet. I'll update the guide when there's a better solution.

Your files

Inside the download folder

• License
• Print guide
• Base
• Light column
• Light column caps (small / medium / large)
• Bottom lamp shade
• Lamp shade (stackable)
• Lamp top

Using the files

All parts are already oriented for printing, so there's no need to rotate or modify anything.

1. Drag one file into your slicer.
2. Apply the settings for that part (see Print settings).
3. Slice and print. One part per plate works best.

Before printing

Make sure to:

• Level the bed
• Clean the nozzle
• Dry your filament (especially PETG)
• Print one part per plate

Where to find the settings

Bambu Studio / OrcaSlicer: layer height, line width, walls, infill, speed and vase mode (Others → Spiral vase) are in the process settings. Temperature, flow ratio and fan speeds are filament settings: click the edit icon next to your filament under Project Filaments.

PrusaSlicer: layers, infill, speed and Spiral vase are under Print Settings. Temperature, extrusion multiplier (flow) and cooling are under Filament Settings.

Always start from the exact preset named for each part, then change the listed settings. Don't just change the layer height on a different preset.

Print settings

Not every part of the lamp prints the same way. Each part has its own job, so it gets its own nozzle, preset and settings.

1. Lamp base

Start with the base. It's a structural part, so strength and dimensional accuracy matter. If your printer still has the stock 0.4 mm nozzle, this is the best place to begin. Otherwise you'll end up changing nozzles twice.

Nozzle: 0.4 mm. Start from the 0.20 mm Strength preset. Vase mode: off.

Why: six walls give rigidity and clean threads, gyroid infill gives even strength without long print times, and a slower outer wall improves surface quality and accuracy.

Once the base is done, switch to a 0.8 mm nozzle for all other parts.

2. Light column

The light column is a structural part. It needs to be strong and stable, but also let the light through. Switch to a 0.8 mm nozzle and select it in both your printer and slicer.

Use the 0.40 mm Standard preset for the 0.8 mm nozzle. Vase mode: off. The column clicks together, so it needs real walls.

Why: a large nozzle and thick layers make strong, stable parts. Concentric patterns give smooth inner surfaces for the LED strip. A low fan keeps the layers bonded, while overhang cooling helps the click connection at the top keep its shape.

3. Lamp shades

The lamp shade defines how the lamp looks when it's switched on. The focus here is even light diffusion, clean vertical walls and a consistent glow. The bottom lamp shade uses the same settings.

Nozzle: 0.8 mm. Use the 0.56 mm Standard preset and turn on Vase mode / Spiral vase with Smooth spiral.

Why: vase mode prints one continuous wall with no seam, thick lines and high layers blend the light smoothly, fan off gives glossy, well-bonded walls while overhang cooling keeps curved edges from drooping, and low speeds keep the thick lines consistent.

4. Lamp top

The lamp top finishes the lamp visually. Like the shades, it's printed for even light diffusion and a clean surface, not for strength.

Nozzle: 0.8 mm. Use the 0.40 mm Standard preset, with Vase mode / Spiral vase and Smooth spiral on. Same settings as the lamp shade, except for the layer height:

The thinner layers give a cleaner top edge. Once the lamp top is finished, you can move on to assembly.

Installing the LED

The small lamp uses 1 light column section, the medium 2 and the large 3. The LED strip sits inside the light column, where it runs back and forth for a brighter glow. Cut it to length before you install it.

Cutting the LED

Only cut the strip at the marked cut points: look for the small copper pads and the scissor icon.

Inserting the LED

Check that the groove inside the light column is aligned. Push the strip gently into the groove from the bottom of the column, with the LEDs facing inward.

Cable routing

The Hue controller block sits inside the light column together with the strip. There are two cable holes:

1. Click the cable into the hole in the inner circle.
2. Guide it through the base, over the two middle rings.
3. Let it exit underneath through the second hole in the outer circle.

Step-by-step assembly

1. Click the light column sections together.
2. Twist the light column into the base.
3. Push the LED strip into the light column (see Installing the LED).
   
4. Route the cable through the base.
5. Put the matching cap on the light column.
6. Place the bottom lamp shade on the base.
7. Stack the lamp shades on top.
8. Finish with the lamp top.

Troubleshooting

Small dots or bubbles on my PETG print

Cause: moisture in the filament or slight under-extrusion. Dry your filament before printing and set the flow ratio to 1.01 (filament settings).

My print doesn't stick to the build plate

Clean the plate with warm water and dish soap. PLA: smooth plate. PETG: textured plate.

My PETG shade looks dull or matte

Set the fan to 0% (keep overhang cooling on) and print at 30 mm/s.

My shade sags or droops

Add a minimum layer print time of 15 seconds and a minimum print speed of 15 mm/s. Lower the speed (PLA: 20 mm/s) and open the printer door, especially with PLA.

The lamp top fails near the end of the print

Cause: a sudden speed jump or no cooling where the click connection starts. Add a minimum layer print time of 15 seconds and a minimum print speed of 15 mm/s, and keep overhang cooling on.

Ripples or bumps in a shade

Use the 0.56 mm preset, not a 0.4 preset with a changed layer height. Avoid silk and gradient filaments.

Care & maintenance

When moving the lamp, always support it from the bottom, with one hand under the light column. Because the base uses a spiral connection, the light column can move slightly up and down if it isn't supported.

Over time, the lamp may collect dust. Clean it with a dry or lightly damp cloth.

If you need to transport the lamp, take it apart into modules. The parts fit neatly into a standard IKEA-style bag, which makes it easy to carry and store.

FAQ

Can I use PLA?

Yes, for the base and the shades. Print the light column in PETG: the LEDs get warm and PLA can deform.

Can I make the lamp taller?

Technically, yes. But stability drops beyond seven modules, so I recommend staying within the defined sizes.

Can I scale VUVU down for a smaller printer?

Not reliably: the LED groove and click connections stop fitting. Get VUVU Mini instead, made for printers from 180 × 180 × 180 mm.

Can I use a different LED strip?

Yes, as long as it fits the 17 × 5 mm groove, can be cut to length and has its own certified plug-in power supply.

Why is the fan off for the shades?

It gives glossy, well-bonded, more translucent walls. Overhang cooling stays on, so curved edges don't droop.

Thank you

Thank you for printing the VUVU lamp. If you'd like to share your build, tag @heysisimono on Instagram. Community prints are featured regularly.

Questions? Email hey@sisimono.com. I'm happy to help.

Hope you enjoy building it.
— sisimono